Friday, June 22, 2012

The Power Of Bacon and Twitter

Tomorrow, I have the honor to be a judge at my first legitimate culinary related event.  And I owe it all to bacon.

I always knew that bacon had magical, mysterious powers.  I could feel it every time I sunk my teeth into that salty, fatty strip of heaven that a force beyond our knowledge was altering the universe.

Plus, it's a scientific fact.  Look it up.

From a culinary perspective, I'm what one would call "Jew-ish."  My great grandfather was a kosher butcher, and while he was alive we kept a kosher home: two sets of dishes, two sets of silverware...the whole Megillah.  Yet our strict adherence to the rules of kashrut seemed to decrease steadily in tandem with Papa Izzy's height as he aged and, when he passed away, we somehow lost the desire (and to be quite frank, the need) to put forth the extra effort.

Away from the confines of our abode was an entirely different story.  I was exposed to the glory of cheeseburgers as a youngster, and pig was just another red meat.  So my rearing sent a lot of mixed signals - kosher (ish) in the house, whatever the hell else you wanted outside.  Thus, while I strictly abide by the no leavens rule during Passover, I have zero qualms with devouring a ham and cheese sando on matzoh. 


Yup.


I guess it comes as no surprise, then, that the first food event I attended in San Francisco was the "Bacon Takedown," held at the Thirsty Bear merely three weeks after my arrival.  Fifteen chefs and one not-so-secret ingredient combined to be what I'd imagine heaven to be like.  


Yet of all the porky goodness I experienced, there were two that stood out snout and ears above the rest.  The first was an ice cream sundae with bacon salted caramel and a piece of signature "Bacon Crack" from Kai Kronfeld of NoshThis.  This was a no-fail dessert - the sweet/salty combo charged ahead and the contrasting flavors toyed in my mouth back and forth as the cold ice cream played with the warm sauce.


The second took me by surprise.  It was so unassuming, so...normal.  Normal looking, that is.  Chef Trace Williams' Bourbon Bacon Jam stole my heart.  Holy wow - even a year removed I can still taste how sweet and jammy it was thanks to the caramelized onions, but with a huge bite of bourbon (I believe she said that she used one bottle per batch) and crispy little bits of bacon nudged into the otherwise smooth spread.  I was so taken with it that, after the competition was over, Chef Trace packed me up a to-go container of what I still contend to be the best jam I've ever experienced.


Fast forward a few months after we had kept in touch intermittently via Twitter, and I receive a random message from @FarmThrowDown asking me if I'd like to be a judge at this upcoming food competition.  On the one hand, I was on cloud nine.  Trying to make it "big" in the food world, I was ecstatic that someone though enough of my incessant tweets and limited knowledge to invite me to participate in such an activity!


On the other hand, I've seen enough Nigerian-prince-held-hostage scams to last me a lifetime.

Against my better judgment, perhaps, I wrote back for some clarification only to find out that it was Chef Trace herself, who was the lead behind organizing this event.  She explained that it was a fundraiser called, "Throwdown on the Farm," a food competition to benefit Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution in the East Bay.  A phenomenal foundation with a mission that, according to Oliver, "...aims to inspire people to reconnect with food. It's all about raising awareness and individual responsibility, resuscitating dying food culture around the world and, ultimately, keeping cooking skills alive."


Powerful.

So, after finding out the legitimacy of the event (to which you can STILL BUY TICKETS!), I dove right in.  Chef Trace welcomed me with open arms and invited me into her circle.  Throught the force of Twitter, I have been introduced to chefs and co-judges alike.  DMs, RTs, MTs...we have managed to form our own little community over the past few months just through social media.  Between food jokes and puns, pictures, and excitement over the event itself, we have managed to "talk" at least a few times a week - sometimes multiple times a day.  I can tell you a tremendous amount about a ton of these folks.  You can check out some bios at www.eastbayfoodrevolution.com, but trust when I say these are some of the most fun, passionate people I have come across.


Remember, we have never actually met.

After some delays, they have finally arrived in San Francisco, and tomorrow will be the first time I have the honor and privilege to not only meet these accomplished chefs, but to taste their (surely) incredible dishes.  


Chef Trace - I owe you all the gratitude in the world, and I am forever in your debt.  Rest assured that I will gladly lend you my hands and the little culinary experience I have any time you're ever in need.  I can not tell you how much I am looking forward to tomorrow's fantastic event.


Please visit Chef Trace's website if you are ever in need of some of the most quality catering you can find in the Bay Area.


Expect a post filled with outstanding food and stunning personalities.  

Nosh on,

Josh

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

My First Second Date

It finally happened, and I feel like the luckiest girl at the ball.

Of all the culinary adventures upon which I have embarked, this was the first time that I have had a planned, repeat encounter with people I've randomly met at a food event.

The traditional pattern has been something along the lines of finding a food source, meeting a random person or people by virtue of my butting into conversations in which I clearly don't belong, having a great conversation with tasty treats, and leaving with nothing more than a full stomach and a decent story.

Not this time.

As you may recall, I met a lovely couple at the recent B. Patisserie popup, and we really hit it off.  Almost immediately, I felt as though there was something different about this particular encounter.  Something clicked. Something resonated.  Something was, to be quite honest, special.  And it isn't anything on which you can put your finger or that can be described in words.  I think I may have fallen for a couple...

(awkward)

But I digress.  We exchanged email addresses and chatted a bit, until they surprised me with an invite to the East Bay for brunch this past Sunday.

Be still my beating heart!  A second date!?

Please don't get the wrong impression - I've been on PLENTY of second dates...


As a repeat customer...


But that was mostly about the food.  When you want a morning bun from Tartine, a hot bowl of Ramen from Hapa Ramen or some Humprhy Slocombe Secret Breakfast, nothing else will do.  And rarely did I run into the same people or have nearly the same personal interactions.  However, this time, I was the one being courted.  They wanted to be with me!  The food would serve as the medium; the rallying point.  But the crux of the meeting was to try and mimic that same experience of being together.

They like me - they really like me!

And I felt the exact same way about them.


So, giddy and giggly, we planned to meet for brunch at one of their favorite spots in the East Bay.  A bicycle trip, a bart ride, and another bicycle trip and I arrived at our destination.  Early, of course - only to find out that it was closed for Father's Day.  

A quick phone call to regroup and we were off to Lois The Pie Queen - a destination they wanted to cross off of their bucket list before they head off to Portland.  A soul food haven for East Bay dwellers to rival the best of the best.  Four miles on the bike and a ten minute drive landed us at our destination almost simultaneously.

Everyone landed upon their orders pretty quickly - except for me of course.  For those of you who know me, it will come as no surprise that I changed my order after it was placed.

I'm the worst.

Bacon, Eggs, Hotcake 

Chicken and Waffles

Salmon Croquettes, Grits, Poached Eggs


Piecing together her ideal meal from our originally planned locale, Leeann made her mix of a hotcake, bacon, and eggs.  Jacob went for the classic chicken and waffles (on which I almost doubled up before my re-neg), and I opted for the salmon croquettes with grits and poached eggs.

I really wanted to be head-over-heels about the dishes.  The atmosphere was simultaneously dive-y and homey.  Tables were filled with those who I can only assume were recently returning from Sunday church services, happy couples, and regulars.  The staff was fantastic - extremely attentive, always there for your warm-up and the company was perfection.  Everything about it made it hard not to love the dishes...but I just couldn't.

Jacob's waffle was paper thin: not nearly enough to hold up to the chicken, which looked less than meaty (though I didn't have a bite to confirm my theory).  Leeann's hotcakes were fine, but nothing about which to write home - though apparently enough about which to blog home.  My croquettes were texturally playful - a nice crispy outside with a soft, salmon-y interior akin to a smooth crab cake or a finer salmon rillettes.  I would have loved some chunks of salmon stuck in there.  The grits were gritty and the poached eggs were a bit overdone and without much yolk to them.  The best phrase I can use to describe the plate is "one-dimensional."

We finished off with (bites of slices) of banana cream pie and mixed berry pie.  The mixed berry pie filling was replete with chunky fruit and was capped with a crispy, flaky crust.  The banana cream was good as well, piled high with whipped cream, but again, I'd probably pass if asked again.

Later, Leeann emailed me to let me know that she thought the meal itself was a letdown, and that it didn't hold a candle to the previously planned spot.  However, the company (i.e. me!) was great - and free, to boot!

Yes, I'm a cheap date, ladies.


Some would say, "priceless."

They say that a great chef can salvage almost any dish.  I contend that great company can do just the same.  Not that this food needed saving by any means - it was pretty good.  I'd take Brenda's in a New York minute, but Lois gave us a decent meal.   Though I'm not sure how it would have tasted if I weren't with Leeann and Jacob....

And isn't that the point?

Nosh on,
Josh

P.S. - For those of you interested, we do have plans to see each other again.  I think this is getting serious...

Thursday, June 14, 2012

More Than The Sum Of Its Parts: Flour+Water

An SF "must," Flour+Water has been on my radar since I moved here just about a year ago.  However, it was always like my Disney World growing up in Ft. Lauderdale - it was close but not close enough to warrant the wait I would need to endure.  By the time I realized that I wanted to go, reservations were already booked solid, so I just threw it to the back burner.

That was, until tonight.  My close friends had been in a similar predicament, yet decided that for the birthday boy (Happy Birthday Jeff!), we would make the trek down upon opening, take our chances, and hope for the best.

Little did we know the endeavor for which we were in store....

The Birthday Boy!
Awaiting a fourth, we began with the smoked sturgeon antipasti.  Thick, meaty slices of smoked fish were polka-dotted on the plate with bright red beets and cubed cucumbers.  The sturgeon was almost steak-like in the best possible way, with an earthy taste that complimented the soil-grown beets.  The tang of the créme frâiche and dill were refreshing and took the dish "out of the ground," so to speak.

Smoked Sturgeon w/ Beets, Cucumbers, Whipped Créme Frâiche & Dill
The beets spilled a nice pink liquid that, when mixed with the créme frâiche made a really nice dipping sauce that complimented the house-made bread quite nicely (like I was going to let that go to waste...).  The interior was soft but a tad too chewy, while the crust was as flaky and crunchy as I could have hoped.

Flour, of Flour+Water

Then came the real fun.  Chalk it up to hunger; chalk it up to being ecstatic that we finally made it and didn't want to leave without trying as many things as we could stomach; chalk it up to every menu item sounding better than the one preceding it; chalk it up to a birthday celebration.

Or, just call us fat.  We don't really care.

Three pasta dishes and two pizzas for four people.  Was it a lot of food?  Sure.  Did it all get consumed happily?  Save for two slices, you bet your ass.

Before we go any further, I'm going to qualify all of the pasta dishes with one vital detail - the noodles were cooked to perfection.  And I'm not talking pretty good, and I'm not talking great - I mean dead-on-balls accurate.  A dreamy al-dente with enough texture to make your mouth realize it had solid food and yet a smoothness that brought you back to the days of eating comforting childhood staples.

Taleggio Scarpinocc with Aceto Balsamico
Definitely the crowd favorite, the taleggio was outstanding.  At the table, I said aloud that the shape didn't quite do it for me, until I came to the realization that, well, it did.  See, the thing about pasta is that it needs to match the sauce in which it is served.  Some styles mesh well with others (i.e. macaroni and cheese works because the cheese can ooze its way through cylindrical tubes...), and others just don't.  In trying to think of a better pasta for this particular dish, I drew a complete blank, which is when I realized why this worked so well.

The scarpinocc look like shallow bowls, or deeper plates, with handles on either end.  This creates a tiny well in which the sauce or topping can rest, yet not overpower the pasta itself.  Because this dish was simply topped with tallegio and a drizzle of balsamic (30-year aged, I believe she said), it was the perfect vessel to be filled.  Tallegio is a milder cheese, yet still lent the essential saltiness, while the aceto balsamico was the ideal counterbalance for sweetness - almost syrupy.  The combination, and more importantly, the proportion of salt to sweet that filled those tiny plates, made this dish a winner.

Fava & Ricotta Mezzaluna w/ Whey, Preserved Meyer Lemon & Tarragon
Pasta dish number two - the half-moon dumplings filled with a house-made ricotta and a fava bean mixture.  Our waitress (Sam) didn't need to tell me that the ricotta was home-made - that was obvious.  Creamy and slightly gritty and a rustic sort of way, the seasonal favas and the cheese made a tasty center.  I know it is a fine line when it comes to filling and overfilling pasta, especially when the dough itself is so wonderful, but I feel this could have been a touch fuller.  I could have just been greedy and wanted to have more of the innards, or it could have just brought a hefty component to the plate.

The unsung hero of this dish, however, was the preserved meyer lemon.  In gathering all the components, it contained a good amount of grounded flavors: the favas, the cheese and whey, even the dough.  But the lemon elevated the dish with a spark of brightness.  Without it, the plate would have been all earth tones, yet when I bit into that tiny lemon nugget, I could taste the dish being lifted (quite literally) up to where the lemon was hanging from the tree, higher and higher, until a harmonious balance existed between the minerality of the legumes and freshness of the citrus.

Black Pepper Pappardelle w/ Quail, Cherries, Pine Nuts & Torpedo Onions
Finally (for pastas, at least...), was our heaviest dish of the three.  The quail was the consistency of a pulled pork, with chopped up cherries and onions for sweetness and a sprinkling of pine nuts for good measure.  Beyond amazing, this could be the best representation of quail I've ever encountered.  Plus, no tiny bones about which to worry.  Score another one for team Flour+Water. 

As I gazed upon the beautiful, black pepper-specked sheets of parppardelle, I knew I was in for something special.  Again, texture was on point, but I really wish the black pepper kicked me in the throat.  It was subtle, which is normally a huge plus for me.  Though with SO much else going on, I think they could have punched it up a notch.  Had this been a more simply topped dish, I think it would have been right on the "dough."

Our pizzas arrived swiftly after our pastas disappeared.  First up was the traditional margherita:

Tomato, Basil, Fior di Latte & Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Normally, traditional pizza just doesn't tickle my fancy.  I mean, push comes to shove, I'd much rather have a pizza with pork belly (which we did...hold your horses) then a regular ol' tomato/basil combo you can get anywhere.  

Well, way to prove me wrong, F+W (can I call you that now?)

How they did it, I just can't fathom.  They managed to have the basil permeate the entire slice, not just the bite with the leaf itself.  Every single bite had fruity olive oil, creamy fior di latte, and a leafy basil slap in the face that had me do a double-take to make sure there was no pesto on it.  

Second, we went for the maiele:

Cured Pork Belly, Broccolini, Fontal, Spring Onions & Calabrian Chili
Bacon, in all its forms, is the highest honor you can bestow upon any food item.  This is no exception.  I am quite glad they included some form of green so I could justify at least a portion (however small) of this meal as a serving of vegetable.  It also gave it a crunchy mouthfeel which I rather enjoyed playing off of the chewy dough.  The warming sensation from the chili was not the least bit overbearing, even for a spice wuss such as I, and added another dimension.  The only thing I would have wanted was perhaps to have caramelized onions instead so that the biting saltiness of the pork belly and cheese was evened out.

Additionally - for 99% of the crust on each pie, it was spot on.  A great cracking thin crust with a little chew before you hit the sauce and cheese.  Yet there was just one spot in the dead center that was just thin enough that the sauce/olive oil/cheese made it soft before I could get that same crunch as I did everywhere else. But again, pretty damn near perfect. 

And what birthday dinner would be complete without dessert?  

A bad one.

So, we got the ever-popular chocolate budino:

Chocolate Budino, Espresso Caramel Cream and Sea Salt
Imagine, if you will, the creamiest truffle filling you've ever had.  Go on, I'll give you a minute...

Start with that as a base, and top it with a fluffy coffee and caramel flavored whipped cream.  If that weren't enough, sprinkle some flaky sea salt on top to really bring out that sweetness.  Now I know that the "add-salt-to-sweet" thing has been around for a while.  But my biggest pet peeve is that people are still generally afraid to take full advantage of the extreme benefits to be had.  F+W doesn't F around with the salt.  It was generous and there was no doubt about the fact that they added it liberally to the top to ensure you got a few flakes in every bite.  For me, that threw this dessert over the top and made it a home run. 

As for the "worth the wait" issue that is constantly raised.  Trick question.  I would absolutely wait 30-45 minutes for a table here for a bunch of reasons: I love the cozy, homey atmosphere, you can easily grab a glass of white and chat while gearing up for the experience head, and, well the food is worth that type of wait.  But here's a little secret:

You don't have to! If your plans allow it, just show up early.  While the space is on the small side, they reserve roughly half the tables for walk ins.  Plan this strategically, and you'll be well on your way to a delicious, flavorful Italian food experience.   

A special thanks goes out to our server, Sam, for an incredible wine recommendation, a delightfully jovial demeanor, wonderful smile, good conversation, quick service, and a candle in Jeff's dessert.  

Birthday dinners are supposed to be special, and this is surely one we won't forget.  

HAPPY BIRTHDAY JEFF!


Nosh on,
Josh

Sunday, June 10, 2012

A Bride, A Groom, A Pop-Up, A Macaron

It all started with a pastry whose name I couldn't pronounce.

I first came across the now ubiquitous Kouign Amann at Farm:Table, and not knowing entirely what it was, was persuaded (quite easily, to be sure) to pick one up on my inaugural visit.  I will save the details of my love affair with this crispy sugary croissant at a later date, but this divine experience had an even greater impact on my palate of pastries, as it introduced me to Belinda Leong.

Belinda, owner of B. Patisserie (Facebook and Twitter), is no newbie to the world of sweets.  She spent one year in Paris under the tutelage of Pierre Hermé (macaron KING of the world), supplied pastries to Bar Agricole, and was Head Pastry Chef at Manresa as well a little restaurant called Gary Danko - just to name a few.

This ain't her first rodeo.  

It is no exaggeration that every time I was able to get my hands on one of her pastries, I took full advantage.  Working down in the South Bay, my pickings are generally slim.  Places that carry her creations are either not open at 6am, close by the time I return home, or have been long sold out.  My weekend jaunts about town, however, are often times accompanied by a little piece of indulgence when I can snag one.  

When I found out that Belinda was popping up at the Four Barrel Alley this Sunday, I knew I had to be there.  I purposely ignored the menu she posted just days before, because to be honest, it didn't much matter to me what she was serving - I knew it would be stellar and I would happily devour it.

Now if there's one thing I'm good at, it's being on time.  And by "on time" I mean ten minutes early.  So, as I hopped on my bike and made my way down Caledonia, I was taken aback by the line that had already formed!  

The Crowd
People really want Belinda's goods.  

As I stood in line, I eyed the menu and saw that most of the items strayed from her normal offerings! 

The Glorious Spread


She had her classic KA, as well as one with an apricot and cherry center.  However, there were so many items I had yet to try, I actually skipped over both of those in favor of diversification.  After an internal battle regarding my decisions, I finally decided on the two I was getting.  First, the "White Chocolate Coffee Macaron with Chocolate Toffee Ganache," and second, the "Sugar Brioche Tart with Summer Berries and Vanilla Cream."

White Chocolate Coffee Macaron with Chocolate Toffee Ganache

Sugar Brioche with Summer Berries and Vanilla Cream

Knowing that Belinda spent time with Pierre himself, I was fired up to try this macaron.  Ever since visiting Paris two summers ago and experiencing the wonder that is a Pierre Herme macaron, I have been on a seemingly fruitless search for anything comparable.  As I bit into it, I knew I was getting much, MUCH closer to my answer.  The part of the macaron that is hardest to replicate is that initial crispy, flaky exterior, and Belinda nailed it . My teeth just cracked the outside, and fell softly into the bed of the cookie.  Here, I though, it was just a bit too chewy.  It is entirely possible that it could have been due to the size of the macaron (which was probably two inches in diameter) - just a little too big. Or, it may have needed to come to room temperature, as my second one (yes, second one, thanks to the lovely staff that let me have a slightly cracked one!  THANKS!) was better.  However, I completely forgot about that once I let the flavors meld together in my mouth.  None of the flavors were too pronounced as to dominate the cookie, yet each one played well off of the next.  The ganache was smooth as silk, and coffee/chocolate/white chocolate complimented each other perfectly.

The sugar brioche was up next.  Killer good.  What I think Belinda does best of all in each of her confections is that she achieves balance.  Here, the brioche was buttery and sweet, but in a subtle way.  The cream was light, and the berries added a brightness that contrasted with the vanilla components.  It was almost like a handheld brioche pancake with berries and cream.  

I started asking around how people found out about her pop-up.  Mostly the answers were along the lines of a Spaceballs relationship: "My brother's cousin knows a guy who had one of her pastries at a friend's bachelorette party..."

Word of mouth travels a long, LONG way.  

Other attendees included personal friends of hers, former Gary Danko colleagues, and just regular Four Barrel customers in for a happy surprise.  But as I re-entered the line for my second round on the tip that her caramelized onion and bacon tart tasted like French Onion soup (yes, my dedication to this blog knows no caloric bounds. You're welcome.), I received the best answer of the day:

"She's actually catering our wedding, and we've only had her Kouign Amann."

  Leeann and Jacob!

Yes, Leeann and Jacob decided to enlist Belinda's expertise for their wedding, having only known her from her KAs and glowing recommendations.  Neither of them consider themselves "cake people," so they wanted to take a more untraditional route for desserts.  (P.S. - the main course at their wedding will be served by Jon Darsky, formerly of Flour+Water and now owner of Del Popolo pizza truck) 

You two are my heroes.  

Freshly stocked with a French Tart Flan and the savory "French Onion Soup"tart, the three of us took our seats on the sidewalk and exchanged stories.  The two met in D.C., where they were both involved in environmental work in one form or another.  They uprooted to the west coast to be closer to some family, and are actually only here until Jacob starts law school (for environmental law) at Lewis and Clark Law School.  Leeann works for an environmental non-profit and is from Ann Arbor (GO BLUE!), and her brother is actually in the Hockey Pep Band: the best band in the country.  Fact.

After the wedding, they'll take a "mini-moon" before heading up to Portland.  Such incredibly nice people who deserve nothing but the best that life has to offer.  They just seemed to genuinely happy together, and not in that really annoying clingy-kissy-pet names way.  Just plain happy.  

Maybe it was the sugar high, but I doubt it.

Their wedding will be in a small little park in San Mateo at the end of July, and though I just met them, am so excited for their lives ahead together (and, you know, the amazing food they'll have at the reception.)  

I promise my priorities are in order.  

We shared our desserts, and they even let me try some of the potential wedding items that Belinda had made for them!  (For what it's worth, the lemon curd/granola/fruit has my vote.  I think with the park setting and the weather, it would be much more appropriate and delicious.  Then again, I'm not a chocolate fan, though that pudding was fantastic.)

Yogurt, Lemon Curd, Fruit and Granola

From what I understand, most couples taste a dozen or so cakes before they find the perfect flavors and textures for which they're looking.  How incredible is that that merely a reputation and one pastry was enough for a couple entrust their entire wedding catering?  

No need when that person is Belinda Leong. 

I guess I should get back to the food.  

Alsatian Caramelized Onion/Bacon Tart
Close-Up

The caramelized onion and bacon tart was just as touted - a handheld french onion soup with the crust as the crouton!  The onions were soft and sweet, with a layer of tangy crème fraîche spiked with salty bacon bits and topped with swiss cheese.  Seriously, if you want french onion soup in a portable form, you won't get anything better than this!  It would be an awesome summertime lunch when you don't want hot soup and still want to feel fancy.  

The real surprise for me, however, was the French Tart Flan.  I'm not usually a flan fan, but I figured since I had tried virtually everything else on the menu, why not go all-out?  

French Tart Flan
Let's start from the bottom up.  The pâte brisée crust managed to stay crisp despite holding the weight of the custardy flan.  It was flaky and had a wonderful snap to it after you sunk through the creamy, smooth insides.  The "flan" did not have your traditional wiggly jello-esque consistency.  Instead, it had a smooth, thick, creamy mouthfeel with the only differing texture coming from the actual vanilla bean specs studded throughout.  The vanilla was the star here, and it shone through and through.  

Belinda - I wish you nothing but all of the success you deserve.  You have proven yourself in restaurants around the world, but now you have the chance to show your stuff for what it really is: your own.  I feel lucky to have such easy access to your work, and rest assured that I will continue to consume it as often as I am physically able.

Leeann and Jacob -  May your life together be as rich in happiness as Belinda's Kouign Amanns are in butter and sugar :)

Nosh On,
Josh